Home  |  What's New  |  Features  |  Gallery  |  Reviews  |  Reference  |  Forum  |  Search

 "Dragon Wagon"

Pacific's M25, 40 Ton Transport Vehicle

120mm Scratch-Built Project

By Robert Waltman


Dragon Wagon





I decided first to use the Tamiya kit (TA #35230) as a basis and a guide for this project.  This decision was followed by a very extensive search for reference (see reference listing).  I basically followed the Tamiya kit instructions to format my building process. Reference photos from the TM manuals also were used to do this, allowing me to deviate were necessary.  All scale dimensions were accomplished with digital calipers (in millimeters), multiplied by 219 percent to increase to 120MM (roughly scaling out 1/16th).  

Now on with the construction.  Using the Tamiya 1/35 scale kit instruction sheet I built this scratch-built project along the same lines as are outlined in the kit itself.




Construction - M26 6x6 Tractor


Step 1 (per the kit instructions):


·        The radiator is from a (out of production I believe) Monogram 1/16 scale Peterbuilt truck kit and modified to have the appearance of the M26’s (using TM books).  Modifications were accomplished with Evergreen strip and Grant Line (GL-127) nuts and bolts.

·        Next, the engine cover was measured out, drawn on sheet plastic (.020) and cut out.  Detail was added with GL-127 nuts and bolts, strip and rod styrene, and Techstar tread-plate.

·        The shifters and knobs are from the truck kit modified for proper appearance.

·        The air horns are from a 1/25th-scale truck kit detailed and cut to size.   

·        Final item of step 1 was the chassis.  This was the most extensive part of this step.  All dimensions were measured out and copied on a Xeroxed drawing of the M26.  Then I set out measuring and cutting sheet styrene (.030).  I used thicker styrene because of the weight it would have to hold.  Other areas, i.e. mid beams side beams, and engine mounts are made from U-shaped strip and various thickness’ of strip styrene.  The fender wells are sheet styrene detailed with GL-127 nuts and bolts.  Motor, transmission, air and compressor tanks were taking from the truck kit and again detailed per photos.  The floor plates are Techstar tread-plate.


Step 2 (per the kit instructions):

·        First was the transfer case.  This was taken from a 1/25th-scale truck kit and modified from photos.

·        The additional side frame detail was built with sheet and strip styrene (.020) with final details being added with GL-127/8 nuts and bolts.

·        The taillights were fashioned from disc cut out using a Waldron Punch and Die (WP&D) set, set into styrene tube fit to size and detailed with strip styrene.


Step 3 (per the kit instructions):

·        The first item in this step was the winch drum.  The interior is made from the appropriate size tube styrene with the outer disc being made with an Olfa circle cutter and .020 sheet styrene.  Each of these two outside disc was detailed with strip and the centerpiece made with the WP&D set. 

·        The towing cable (which is added later) is small gauge picture frame wire.  I used this because it has the flexibility to wrap around the winch drum but still maintains is rigidness without “kinking” up.

·        Now the front springs and winch “well” are completely scratchbuilt from strip and sheet styrene.  Final detail again with GL-127 nuts and bolts.


Step 4 (per the kit instructions):

·        The basis for the power steering unit was fashioned from sheet styrene (.020).  The steering column and reservoir were made from tube styrene and detailed with strip.  The smaller details are GL-127 nuts and bolts and rod styrene. 

·        The air cleaner box is again sheet styrene with the 2 air cleaner’s cut-to-size brass tube.  Hose connection points are smaller gauge brass tubes with clamps made from strip and GL-127/28 nuts and bolts. 

·        The winch drive unit is 3 various size drive shafts from the spare parts box with the take-off unit being fashioned from sheet and rod styrene. 

·        The final part is the steering linkage, which was made from styrene rod and sheet plastic.  The pivot points are detailed with disc cut out and these are detailed with GL-127 nuts and bolts.


Step 5 (per the kit instructions):

·        The front axles, drive shaft and uprights are highly modified parts from the 1/16th scale truck kit.  As with previous items, the reference photos and TM’s were used to extensively detail them with strip, rod and GL-127/28 nuts and bolts.  The axle did had to have ¼ inch on each end cut off to match the M26s’ proper size.  Final assembly was completed with the uprights being positioned so the front wheels could be turned.



Step 6 (per the kit instructions):

·        The tandem axle unit was complicated to say the least.  Both basic shapes were fashioned from .060 sheet styrene.  I used a sturdier styrene because of the amount of weight that will be applied to the rear wheels and axles.  All of the shaping (i.e. bracing and so forth) was made from .020 and .030 strip styrene.  Lettering on the side frames is the PABT-4 size from Plastruc.  The drive chain oiling system was made from tube styrene with the filler cap taken from a 1/25th truck kit.  The drive train sprockets are made from Ultra Pro Shape, which was graciously made by Andrew Meyers.  (Yes that Andy i.e. Batman!)  The drive chain itself is a mini stainless steel chain from PSM Engineering (see index).

·        The rear axle was taken from the 1/16th scale truck and was cut to size.  Some minor details were added with the GL 127 nuts and bolts along with strip styrene.


Step 7 (per the kit instructions):

·        Basically after the construction of the tandem axle unit I completed the first part of this step by attaching the two halves with the axle in the center.

·        To complete step 7, I scratchbuilt the remaining items from sheet and strip styrene, detailed with GL 127 nuts and bolts.  These items were attached with Weld-On 3.


Step 8 (per the kit instructions):

·        At this point the front axle unit and the completed tandem axle unit were attached, making sure to carefully align the two drive shafts before gluing with 5-minute epoxy.

·        The final part was the attachment of the tie-rod, which I gave a slight turn to the left.


Step 9 (per the kit instructions):

·        The master for the tires was made by Andrew Meyers out of Ultra Pro Shape.  The master was made in a half section.  This better facilitated the casting process.  Once I received these gems from Andrew I started the detail (lettering) using the PABT-2 size plastic letters from Plastruc.  Once completed, I made a mold and continued with the casting.  All of the castings are made with the CR-300 resin from Micro-Mark as well as Ace resin.  Since there are 19 wheels I made 38 sections which I sanded flat and then super-glued together.  Once all 19 were completed they were primed and painted flat black, drybrushed with a combination of burnt sienna and white oils and then flat coated.  (NOTE: the lettering on the tire is as follows:  (Goodrich/ Silvertown/1400-24/Master Grip/Combat/80 PSI.))


·        Andrew Meyers also made the rims or wheels.  These are from Ultra Pro Shape turned on a lathe.  He then drilled out all of the “guide” holes for the placement of the studs and lug nuts, which I added with brass screws and nuts.  The casting was completed as per the tires.


Step 10 (per the kit instructions):

·        Here the completed rims and tires are to be attached.  At this point I completed (painting) all of the tires and rims, constructed them, and set aside.  I did not attach any of these items until the truck itself was completed (painting).  At that point I attached them with 5-minute epoxy to brass shafts I fashioned earlier.


Step 11 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involves attaching various items in the cab.  First are the seats.  These were all made from .020 sheet plastic and glued in place.  All of the cushions are made from 2-part epoxy putty, which, while still wet, was textured with a T-shirt “rolled” over them to give the appearance of canvas cushions.

·        The two jerry cans are from the Verlinden line.  The straps to hold them in place are made from strips of metal foil cut to size and super-glued in place.  The brackets they fit in are strip styrene.

·        The air hose that attaches from the air cleaners to the motor is a re-worked piece from the 1/16th scale truck kit.  I detailed it with GL wingnuts and GL 127 nuts and bolts.

·        The firewall is made from .020 sheet styrene and ¼ inch strip then glued in place.

·        The instrument panel was first cut from .020 sheet styrene.  All of the gauge openings were cut out with a WP&D set.  The dials are cut-to-size from K&S aluminum tubing.  All of the switches are cut from brass rod and super-glued in place.  The buttons are cut out with the WP&D set.  The instruments themselves are decals from the spare decal box with epoxy dropped in place to give the appearance of lenses.

·        Next item was the shift column.  This is just a re-worked column from the 1/16th truck kit.

·        The final items are the Commanders table and the first aid kit.  Both were made from .020 sheet and 1/8 inch styrene.  The markings on the first aid kit are dry transfers from Verlinden.


Step 12 (per the kit instructions):

·        At this point I did not add any of the figures it shows in the instruction sheet.  I did attach the steering wheel major converted from the 1/16th truck kit.  I also scratch-built the parking brake and glued in place.


Step 13 (per the kit instructions):  


·        The start of the cab assembly began by placing all of the dimensions on the drawings I had made.  Then I cut out the 9 sections.  Next I cut out all of the windows and doors along with the “cupola” opening.  These items were set aside to be detailed later.  Once this was completed I took all 9 sections and carefully glued them together.  Assuring that all of the angles were correct.  Interior bracing was fashioned from 1/8 inch strip styrene and detailed with GL 127 nuts and bolts.  Exterior details (i.e. hinges, signal lights, and bracing) are all made from 1/8 and ¼ inch strip and rod styrene and brass.  Final items are the front windows, which were cut to size from .010 clear Squadron sheet.  These were set aside to be attached later after painting and weathering.

·        The roof fire extinguishers are from a 1/20th Tamiya kit. Decals are from the spare decal box.

·        The 2 side decontaminating apparatus’ are scratch-built from styrene tube and strip.  Decals are from the spare decal box.

·        The 4 canteens are from the Verlinden line.

·        The actuators for the front engine doors are made from styrene rod and again detailed with GL 127 nuts and bolts!


Step 14 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involved more detail and additions to the interior of the cab plus the attachment of the rear panel.  The rear panel was made from .020 sheet styrene with additional interior details being added with strip and rod styrene.

·        The jerry can is from the Verlinden line and attached with aluminum foil.  The bracket is made from strip.

·        The .50 cal ammunition racks were scratch-built with .020 sheet styrene and 1/8 inch strip.  The ammo boxes are cut-to-size resin cans I modified from the Verlinden line.  The straps for each row of cans were fashioned from sheet aluminum strips.

·        The side seat backs were constructed from 2-part A&B epoxy putty.  This was textured with a T-shirt to give it the canvas look.

·        The two side fire extinguishers were taken from a 1/20th scale Tamiya kit and modified with strip and rod to make them correct.  A bracket was made for each one out of .020 sheet styrene and again the strap was made from 1/8 inch strips of sheet aluminum.

·        The two canteens are from the Verlinden line.

·        The three grenade cases are modified Verlinden ammo boxes originally for 1/35th scale vehicles.  Dry transfer lettering is also from the Verlinden line.

·        The first aid kit was taken from the spare parts box and modified with strip styrene.  Dry Transfer logos and lettering is from the Verlinden line also.

·        The flare case is also from the spare parts box and was completed as the above piece.

·        The M2 machine gun barrel is from the Verlinden line with a bracket to attach it to the rear panel made from strip and detailed with GL 127 nuts and bolts.

·        The final item is the front bumper.  This was fashioned from .060 sheet styrene and detailed with strip and GL 127 nuts and bolts.  This was set aside for placement later.


Step 15 (per the kit instructions):

·        The photo-etched items were all measured to size and cut from Techstar tread-plate and set aside until they were needed for upcoming steps.



Step 16 (per the kit instructions):  

·        The bulletproof windows were now attached.  These were previously cut to shape when the cab was assembled.  Before attaching all of the bulletproof windows and engine covers, I detailed each item per the TM photos.  Window locks were made from styrene rod and strip cut to size.  The openings were cut out with the WP&D.  All hinges are fashioned from strip and rod to give an adequate appearance.  The front windows were to be showed open so I made the braces from rod and strip measured to proper lengths and attached.

·        Next was the M2 gun tri-pod.  I took the remaining items from the Verlinden kit and scratchbuilt the remaining pieces to complete the required details.  Once this was attached I made the straps from sheet aluminum, cut to size to fit the brackets.

·        Next items were the front hook attachments, which were fashioned from sheet styrene and drilled out.

·        The side steps are made from plastic tread-plate, cut to size and then attached in place.

·        The tool compartments (2) for the shovel, pick axe, and hatchet was made from strip styrene and then attached in place.

·        The steering unit cover is .020 sheet styrene laminated for the curve then set-aside for final construction and attachment of the cab.

·        The two toolboxes on the aft of the cab are from the Verlinden line and attach with super-glue.

·        The final items are the two whiffle tree attachments.  The base is a piece of strip and the “hook” is a section of tube styrene cut in half and attached to the strip.


Step 17 (per the kit instructions):

·        The first item built in this step is the two headlights and their brackets and brush guards.  I made the lights from a 1/48th scale MK 82 bomb that I cut the first ½ inch off.  This was used to fashion the light frame itself.  Next I added the attachment points which were made from strip.  The lenses are from the good ‘ol spare parts box and touch up with epoxy.  The platforms and brackets, which hold them, were made from .020 sheet styrene, which was cut to size and detailed, with strip and GL 127 nuts and bolts.

·        The blackout driving light was a spotlight taken from a 1/25th scale truck kit and detailed with 1/8 inch strip, then attached to the bracket next to the left headlight.

·        The brush guards were made with 1/8 inch strip brass bent to shape.  The individual braces were also made with 1/8 inch brass strip and 5-minute epoxied to the guard frames.  Once completed they were attached to the light brackets.

·        The siren was made in the same fashion as the headlights with the exception that the forward section is an inverted siren light from a 1/25th scale police car.  These were then detail with strip and placed on the bracket.  The lens is a sequin cut to size.

·        The final item in this step is the drawbar.  This was made from Evergreen I-beam cut-to-size.  Attachment points are fashioned from sheet and strip.  Once all of the items were completed they were then attached to the front of the cab.


Step 18 (per the kit instructions):

·        At this point I made the tools for the cab.  The left and right tool compartments were made from 1/8th and ¼ inch strip.  The tools are all scratchbuilt from strip and rod styrene and Ultra Pro Shape that was carved to size and shape.  These items were then attached to the cab in their appropriate places.

·        The M32 gun mount was fashioned on a lathe by Andrew Meyers out of Ultra Pro Shape.  The three attachment points were made from 5MM strip cut-to-size and detailed with GL 127 nuts and bolts.  The remaining item was the attachment bracket for the .50 cal.  This was made with, again, sheet and strip cut-to-size and detailed.


Step 19 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involved several separate items, each being individually scratchbuilt.  The first was the coupler.  First thing is the fifth wheel is a highly modified part from the 1/16th scale truck kit.  The coupler itself is made from sheet styrene, ¼ inch square strip carve to size and appearance, brass nuts and various sizes of strip for final detaining.  Once completed it was attached to the truck frame.

·        The exhaust was made from aluminum tubing bent to shape with a K&S tube bender.  The muffler is larger tube aluminum detailed with strip.  The muffler guard is made from sheet styrene and attached to the muffler.  The exhaust guard was made from perorated brass sheet from PSM engineering, which was bent to the appropriate shape with a sheet metal bender.  This was attached with 5-minute epoxy to the exhaust brackets.

·        The A-arm is another scratchbuilt item from sheet and strip styrene.  The pulley is from Plastruc.

·        The whiffle is scratchbuilt also with sheet styrene cut to size.  The lower attachment point is made form styrene tube.  The pip pins are made from brass rod.

·        Andrew Meyers using Ultra Pro Shape and turning them on a lathe made the acetylene and oxygen tanks which I then molded and cast.  I added the platform from sheet and the brackets are made from brass strip and rod.  

·        The final item was the toolbox.  The basic tool box is made with .020 sheet styrene.  The splash guard was also made from sheet styrene.  The top of the tool box (platform) was made with Techstar treadplate.  All items were detailed with the GL 127 nuts and bolts.


Step 20 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involved attaching all of the previous items made in step 19 with the exception of the pintle hook and tow hooks, which were scratchbuilt.



Rear Winch


Step 21 (per the kit instructions):

·        The rear and front winch drums were made in the same manner as the winch in step three.  

Step 22 (per the kit instructions):

·        The tandem winch assemblies were completely scratch-built from sheet and strip styrene.  The winch levers are made from rod.  All items are extensively detailed with various sizes of GL nuts and bolts.

·        The motor units are also extensively scratch-built and detailed.  Once these items were complete, they were attached to the winch frame, previously built.

·        Since each winch is different in design, they each had to be built as completely separate units.  Dimensions and all.  Suffice it to say a detailed account of each step would be an article in itself.  

Step 23 (per the kit instructions):

·        Once the two entire winch assemblies were completed they were then attached to the scratch-built frame.  This was constructed from various sizes of strip styrene.  

·        The winch drive chain is a plastic product from PSM Engineering.  The chain sprockets are scratched from sheet styrene.  This was numbered out with a compass and then each sprocket was drilled out to form the teeth.  

Step 24 (per the kit instructions):  

·        The rear, clutch, brake, and gearshift levers for the front and rear winches along with the engine clutch pedal were all built from strip styrene.  The handles for each are made from rod that was formed to size.  As before with everything else, the final details were made with GL nuts and bolts.

·        The final attachment of each lever took careful alignment.  To assure myself of proper attachment I studied the diagrams in the TMs to make sure all were in place and attached to their respective actuators (made from styrene rod).  I worked from the inside out in the placement.  Once this was accomplished, the engine clutch pedal was attached to its respective rod.


Step 25 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involves the scratch building of the “A” frame.  I made this from K&S telescoping aluminum tubing.  Smaller tube had the holes for the pins drilled out before insertion into larger piece.  The front and rear attachment points are made from strip styrene.

·        I did not attach the winch assembly at this time.  It was set aside to be painted and weathered and then attached during final assembly.


Step 26 (per the kit instructions):

·        The two spot lights are from a 1/25th scale truck kit.  The mounting brackets and hinges are scratch-built from aluminum tubing and strip/rod styrene.  These were then detailed with GL nuts and bolts of various sizes.

·        The chain hoist is made with sheet styrene and discs cut out with the Olfa circle cutter.  End caps are made with the WP&D set.

·        The crane started with a 114MM section of Evergreen “I” beam.  The rod on which it sits is a 110MM length of styrene rod with an aluminum base.  Pivot point details are made from GL 127 nuts and bolts.  The column rod is cut-to-length brass rod.


Step 27 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involves attaching the two spotlights and crane.  The tire tongs and there attachment pieces were fashioned from sheet styrene.  These are photo-etched items in the kit so I took their dimensions and drew these out on sheet, which I cut out.  I set these aside for later.  The chain was added last.


Step 28 (per the kit instructions):  



·        The M2 machine would not be attached until the final assembly stage.  It is the Verlinden item, which was assembled, painted, weathered and set aside for that.

·        The tarp is sculpted from 2-part A&B epoxy putty.  The straps are cut strips of sheet aluminum.  The brackets are made from strip.

·        The roof spotlight is scratch-built from rod and strip.  The handle is from the spare parts box.

·        The two rear view mirrors are made from rod and strip with the “mirror” part being made with a paper hole punch.  A piece of reflective sequin cut out with a paper hole punch was added in the final assembly.

·        The spare wheel and front chain were also added during the final assembly.



M15 Semi-Trailer

Step 29 (per the kit instructions):

·        The M15 trailer started with scale drawings.  Once the dimensions had been transferred from the kit and scaled up to 120MM, the cutting of .060 sheet plastic began.  A temporary jig was made to attain the correct angle of the gooseneck.  Once this had been done I then proceeded to apply the side frames and details.  The last item on this step was the scratch building and attaching of the air tanks.  These are highly modified parts from a 1/16th scale trailer with the addition of hose connectors being added using AN fittings from Detail Master.


Step 30 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involved adding the top portion of the trailer and the attachment points for the loading ramps.  Using the previous drawings I scaled out the dimensions on .060 sheet styrene cut the various pieces out and then attached were appropriate.

·        The attachment points for the ramps were handed fashioned from .020 strip styrene and drilled with 2MM holes for future attachment of the ramps themselves.


Step 31 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step involves attaching the side steps to the trailer.  These were made from .040 scale thickness sheet styrene with a treadplate design.  Once each of the 15 sides was cut out, they were attached in a stair-step fashion.

·        The next items are the 4 side frames which are the tool box doors.  Theses were individually scratch-built with .030 sheet styrene.  The door latches were individually made for each door, as were the hinges, which were made with strip and rod styrene.

·        The final item of the step was the scratch building of the trailer lights.  I used strip for the base.  The individual light frames were cut out of .020 sheet styrene with a hole punch.  These were cut in half to simulate each frame part.  The light themselves are WP&D disc #6 cut from .040 sheet, then cut in half and attached between the frames.  Final details are GL 127 nuts and bolts.  Painting was accomplished after final assembly and painting/weathering of the trailer.


Step 32 (per the kit instructions):

·        The support legs for the trailer where all made from .020 sheet and strip styrene and h and u shape from Evergreen.  The pads are re-worked from a 1/16th scale truck kit.  As with everything else the remaining details are GL nuts and bolts.



Step 33 (per the kit instructions):  

·        At this point I made the two trailer axles.  Once measured out with the calipers I cut all of the shapes from .040 sheet styrene.  I used a little sturdier styrene just in case I decided to park a tank on it one day.  The end pieces which support the tires and rims is cut and carved from 5mm square strip styrene with additional details made from 3mm/.020 strip styrene.  Final surface details are GL nuts and bolts #127 and various size discs cut out of .020 sheet styrene with a WP&D.

·        Note: the trailer wheel and rim were previously made during the truck wheel assembly.



Step 34 (per the kit instructions):

·        At this point I attached the two previously made axles to the existing trailer framework.  I aligned these and centered them for later attachment of the wheels.

·        The trailer lights were cast with CR-300 after the originals were scratch-built with strip rod and styrene.


Step 35 (per the kit instructions):  




·        The loading skids were constructed with .020 sheet and various sizes of strip.  As with previous items these had to be scaled out with the calipers and then drawn to the appropriate scale were I then transferred all of the measurements on to the sheet.  The handles for the skids are made from 1mm brass rod bent to the appropriate shape.


Step 36 (per the kit instructions):  

·        The cable guide assembly (basic framework) was made with 3mm and 5mm strip.  The “rollers” were made from acrylic rod cut to size with the end caps being cut out with an Olfa circle cutter.

·        The jacks started out with a scratch-built item, which was molded and then cast with CR-300.

·        Tie-downs are made with 2mm brass rod.

·        The trailer cable hook-ups started with the first one being scratch-built.  I then made a mold and cast the other three (two for the truck).


Step 37 (per the kit instructions):

·        All of the following items were constructed at this point with .020 sheet styrene, painted, weathered and set aside: the wheel guard assembly (4), removable skids (4), wheel block (4), plate (2), jack (2), and platform skid (2).


Step 38 (per the kit instructions):

·        Once the trailer was completed (painted and weathered), all of the items from Step 37 were attached.

·        The pulley was scratch-built with disc being cut out with the Olfa, detailed with 2mm/.020 strip and detailed with GL #127 nuts and bolts.


Step 39 (per the kit instructions):

·        This step was basically where I attached the completed (finally!!!) model to the base.  The black tubing (for trailer/truck electrical hook-ups) was attached at this point also.



Painting and Decals

All of the base painting was done with olive drab.  This was then followed up with a light dusting of faded olive drab.  The details were painted with the Vallejo acrylics.  


For decals I took the 1/35th scale decal sheet and scanned it with DeskScan.  I took this and increased the initial scan by 219%.  I then printed this with a Color Laser Jet 4500 on Detail Master decal film.  Once the end item was completed I sprayed the final product with Testors dull cote to preclude any of the copied material from scraping off.  Here’s were you have to be care because you now have one 81/2 X 11 inch decal, so you have to cut out each item separately.  These were applied with a modest application of Solva-Set to “lay” the decals in place.





Overall weathering was done I applied several coats of Testors Dull-cote before the wash.  Then I gave the model a generous wash of diluted burnt umber and sienna.  Once this had dried (24hrs) I then dry-brushed the entire model with a combination of oils to achieve an overall graduation of the olive drab, up to the point were I applied almost pure titanium white as a final touch.  This step was allowed to dry for a couple of days.  Final weathering was accomplished with various earth tone shades of pastels much the Tony Greenland points out in his Masterclass book.





Base was made from a piece of 1x12x48 inch poplar wood.  The side framing is floor molding.  Overall items were stained with mahogany/ cherry and once dry, giving several coats of clear. 

The groundwork is celluclay colored with brown acrylic before applying to the board.  While still wet I applied a generous amount of Hudson & Allen forest litter, maple leaves and grass.  Once everything had dried I drybrushed various shades of earth tones to “blend” the figure, model and remaining items together.

The sign is a Verlinden item attached to a ¼ inch square piece of bass wood, stained with Weather-all.





The figure (Warriors #WA-16027) was built basically stock.  Once the construction was completed I primered the entire piece with Plasti-Cote T235 Grey primer.  Once this was dry (about 24 hours) I painted the entire figure with Vallejo Acrylics.  When this was dry (about another 24 hours) a couple of coats of Floquil flat spray were used to finish the figure.  Final weathering was done with pastels once the figure was attached to the base.  




Tools / Items Used


1.       The following items are from VLS:

Grandt Line Nuts and Bolts

  • 1 ½” Nut, Bolt, no washer (GL 127)

  • 2 ½” Hex, Nut, Bolt, no washer (GL 128)

  • Wingnuts (GL 162)

Hudson & Allen Studio

  •  Forest Litter (HS 9403)

  • Pine  Boughs (HS 9505)

  • Spring Turf (HS 9616)

  • Groundwork (HS 9714)

On The Mark Models

  • Treadplate, Standard Pattern, Large (OM 0104)


  •  US 40-Ton Tank Transporter “Dragon Wagon” (TA 35230)


  • Treadplate, 45° T-pattern (TC 1004)

  • Large Mesh #1 (TC 1009)

  • Styrene Rod .020 (TC 3014)

  • Styrene Rod .040 (TC 3015)

  • Styrene Rod .050 (TC 3015)

  • Styrene Rod .060 (TC 3016)

  • Styrene Tube .020 (TC 3019)

  •  Styrene Tube .040 (TC 3020)

  • Styrene Tube .050 (TC 3021)

  • Styrene Tube .060 (TC 3022)

Model Master (II) Paints

  • Metalizer Gun Metal (TS 1405)

  • Metalizer Exhaust (TS 1406)

  • Metalizer Burnt Metal (TS 1415)

  • Olive Drab ANA 613 F (TS 2050)

  • Faded Olive Drab F (TS 2051)

Verlinden Productions

  • US Weapons & Equipment WWII-120MM (VP 0576)

  • .50 Cal. Machine Gun-120MM (VP 0818)

  • C-Rations-120MM (VP 0821)

  • Assorted Roadsigns WWII/printed-120MM (VP 0830)

  • US Jerrycans: WWII/Modern-120MM (VP 0847)

  • US Uniform Badges/decals-120MM (VP 0605)

  • US Vehicle Numbers and Stars (VP 0866)

Warriors Scale Models Inc.

  • US Infantryman France 1944 (WA 16027)

Yanks Miniatures

  • Yank, Army Weekly WWII GI Magazines-120MM (YA 9753)

  • Stars and Stripes WWII Newspapers-120MM (YA 9755)

Waldron Model Products

  • Punch and Die Set (WM 18)

  Masters Group/Winners Club

  • US Set #1-120MM (VV-6001)

  • US Set #3-120MM (VV-6003)  

2.      The following items are from: Precision Scale Model Engineering (33 Harding Street, Milford, MA 01757-2215 ((508) 478- 3148))

  • Weld-On 3 Acrylic Solvent Cement (WOC-3)

  • Tubular Braided Metal – 1/32” OD Bright Stainless Steel (TBS-032)

  • Miniature Scale Chain (SSC-250W)

  • Miniature Spring Return Hooks (NKS-09)

  •  Miniature Spring Return Hooks (NKS-13)

  • Mini Chain – Plastic (MPC-1227)

  • Miniature Stainless Roller Chain – Steel (MRC-1475)

  • Miniature Stainless Connecting Links – Steel (RRC-1400)

  • Brass Perforated Sheet – Inline Holes (dia. .057) (PFS-150)

  • Fuel Oil & Gasoline Transfer and Dispensing Hose w/ connectors – 1/16th scale (OGH-2400)  

3.      The following are from: Plastruct (1020 South Wallace Place, City of Industry, CA 91748 ((626) 912-7016))

  • Structural Shapes )Various sizes)

  • Plastabets Plastic Letters (PABT-2 and PABT-4)

  • Economical Pulley Sets (PULYS-20)  

4.      Following items are from Micro-Mark:

  • Digital Calipers (item #81339)

  • Marking Rule (item #81569)

  • One-to-One Silicon Mold Rubber (item #81545)

  • CR-300 Casting Resin (item #81544)

  • RustAll System (item #80755)

  • Age-it-Easy Gray (item #80873)  

  • Doc O’Brien’s Weathering Powders/Set of 12 (item #81632)

  • Lightweight Hydrocal (item #80524)

  • Ultra-Glo Resin/32 oz (for water) (item #80349)

  • Floquil Flat Spray (item #60765)  

5.      Evergreen Sheet and Strip Styrene (various sizes)

6.      Acryl-Blue Glazing Compound (putty/filler)

7.      Plasti-Cote T235 Grey Primer

8.      A&B 2-Part Epoxy Putty

9.      K&S Tubing (aluminum and brass/various sizes)





1.               War Department Technical Manuals (Reprints sold by: Portrayal Press, P.O. Box 1190, Andover, NJ 07821)

-         TM 9-767 (40 Ton Tank Transporter/Truck-Trailer M25)

-         TM 9-1767B (Power Train for Tractor Truck M26, Component of 40-Ton Tank Transporter Trailer, Truck M25)

-         TM 9-1767C (Body/Chassis/Winches for Tractor Truck M26, Component of 40-Ton Tank Transporter Trailer Truck M25)

2.               MVJ Military Vehicle Journal #8 (Various photos of the M26 and M26A1)

3.               Military Modelling/November 1996 (Article on Tank Workshops M26 with various photos/how-to’s)

4.               Steel Masters (date unknown) (Article on diorama by Giles Peiffer on DES’ M26.  Great photos)

5.               M26 article by Robert Mellichamp (Lots of various 1/35th plans and drawings.  Some are rough though.)

6.               Various color detail (very detailed) photos provided by Bob Collington (72 total) from the following web-site: 

-         http://www.buffnet.net/~tonym/models.htm (gallery 6/7/8)


Article, Model and Images Copyright © 1999 by Robert Waltman
Page Created 17 December, 1999
Last updated 26 July, 2007

Back to HyperScale Main Page

Back to Features Page